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Stimulator of gag reflexes. Starter of dinnertime feuds. Stainer of tablecloths.
Poor beets. They get a bad rap.
But then a few years back, a funny thing happened to the rascal of a root. Beets enjoyed an unexpected rise in popularity. Not just in trendy restaurants and food magazines, but in home kitchens as well.
Chefs loved the veggie’s versatility in both savory and sweet dishes. Foodies couldn’t resist its jewel-tone shock of color. And health-conscious folks hailed its nutritional benefits.
Things were going great for the beet.
And then this: “I always avoid eating them,” President Barack Obama proclaimed in an interview.
Not since George H.W. Bush dissed broccoli has a vegetable been so presidentially snubbed. But plenty of cooks are coming to the defense of the beleaguered beet.
ON BEHALF OF BEETS
“I love beets. I love the earthiness of them,” said Marc A. D’Antonio, 46, corporate chef for Acme Fresh Market. “It’s just kind of an unusual vegetable with its bright color and earthy flavor.”
D’Antonio knows not everyone shares his view. “My father used to say, ‘They taste like dirt.’ ”
Yes, their flavor has been described as such. But others enjoy the taste, alternatively described as “mineral-rich.”
“My dad hated them but my mother loved them,” D’Antonio said. Growing up, D’Antonio’s mom made them the traditional way.
“We always had them pickled, either as a side dish or in a salad,” he said. “Or remember Harvard beets? It’s an ancient recipe, the one that’s sweet and hot.”
In recent years, beet recipes have become more inspired.
“My favorite is roasting,” D’Antonio said. “A little of olive oil and salt and pepper really caramelizes the sugar in them.” Roasted beets are tasty as a side or in a salad. D’Antonio’s tops leafy greens with beets, oranges, goat cheese and pistachios, all drizzled with an orange marmalade vinaigrette. It’s an adventure in flavor, texture and color, he promises.
“The oranges and the beets are a beautiful combination,” he said.
Many chefs are experimenting with beet varieties. At the Hart Mansion restaurant in Minerva, executive chef Chuck Rollins has used candy cane beets in salads.
“When you cut them in half they have red and white stripes,” Rollins said. “They are really pretty.”
Rollins’ sous chef, Mark Zimmerman, created a terrine using golden beets, also called yellow beets. Flavor wise, yellow beets taste just like red beets, Zimmerman said.
Stimulator of gag reflexes. Starter of dinnertime feuds. Stainer of tablecloths.
Poor beets. They get a bad rap.
But then a few years back, a funny thing happened to the rascal of a root. Beets enjoyed an unexpected rise in popularity. Not just in trendy restaurants and food magazines, but in home kitchens as well.
Chefs loved the veggie’s versatility in both savory and sweet dishes. Foodies couldn’t resist its jewel-tone shock of color. And health-conscious folks hailed its nutritional benefits.
Things were going great for the beet.
And then this: “I always avoid eating them,” President Barack Obama proclaimed in an interview.
Not since George H.W. Bush dissed broccoli has a vegetable been so presidentially snubbed. But plenty of cooks are coming to the defense of the beleaguered beet.
ON BEHALF OF BEETS
“I love beets. I love the earthiness of them,” said Marc A. D’Antonio, 46, corporate chef for Acme Fresh Market. “It’s just kind of an unusual vegetable with its bright color and earthy flavor.”
D’Antonio knows not everyone shares his view. “My father used to say, ‘They taste like dirt.’ ”
Yes, their flavor has been described as such. But others enjoy the taste, alternatively described as “mineral-rich.”
“My dad hated them but my mother loved them,” D’Antonio said. Growing up, D’Antonio’s mom made them the traditional way.
“We always had them pickled, either as a side dish or in a salad,” he said. “Or remember Harvard beets? It’s an ancient recipe, the one that’s sweet and hot.”
In recent years, beet recipes have become more inspired.
“My favorite is roasting,” D’Antonio said. “A little of olive oil and salt and pepper really caramelizes the sugar in them.” Roasted beets are tasty as a side or in a salad. D’Antonio’s tops leafy greens with beets, oranges, goat cheese and pistachios, all drizzled with an orange marmalade vinaigrette. It’s an adventure in flavor, texture and color, he promises.
“The oranges and the beets are a beautiful combination,” he said.
Many chefs are experimenting with beet varieties. At the Hart Mansion restaurant in Minerva, executive chef Chuck Rollins has used candy cane beets in salads.
“When you cut them in half they have red and white stripes,” Rollins said. “They are really pretty.”
Rollins’ sous chef, Mark Zimmerman, created a terrine using golden beets, also called yellow beets. Flavor wise, yellow beets taste just like red beets, Zimmerman said.
“I blanched and peeled them, then layered them in a terrine pan with goat cheese and tarragon,” Zimmerman said. “I sliced it into wedges, served with a lemon vinaigrette. It was a big hit.”
In the retail market, exotic beet varieties haven’t quite caught on yet, said Bob Halfen, produce buyer for Acme Fresh Market. The chain does not carry them. Sales of red beets, however, are increasing.
“People are becoming informed as to so how healthy and nutritious they are,” Halfen said. “There are only 35 calories in the average beet , they are very high in folic acid, which is important for pregnant women, and they also contain potassium, calcium and betacyanin, an antioxidant.”
For the freshest beets, “look for healthy greens on top,” Halfen said. “And they are edible and very nutritious, too.” Prepare beet greens as you would other greens.
For unusual beet varieties, ask your store’s produce manager about availability. West Point Market in Akron occasionally carries golden beets, but it is best to call before making the drive, suggests produce manager David Lukens. Their number is (800) 838-2156.
ROASTED BEET AND ORANGE SALAD
1 bunch of 4 beets
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and pepper
2 oranges, peeled and sectioned
4 ounces goat cheese, crumbled
Salad greens of choice
Pistachios, shelled and roughly chopped
Dressing:
1/2 cup orange marmalade
2 tablespoon cider vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Prepare beets by cutting greens from beets leaving about 1-inch of stem on the beets and leave root intact. Scrub with brush under running water. Toss beets in olive oil and place on baking sheet. Season with salt and pepper. Roast for about 45 minutes or until a knife can be inserted easily. Cool, peel and cut each beet into six or eight wedges.
For dressing, place marmalade, vinegar and mustard in a food processor. Turn blade on for several minutes to combine. With processor still running, drizzle olive oil through feed tube slowly. Scrape down sides of bowl and season with salt and pepper. Process again to combine.
Toss salad greens with half the dressing and place on salad plates. Toss beets in remaining dressing. Divide beets, oranges and goat cheese among plates. Garnish with pistachios.
— Marc A. D’Antonio, corporate chef for Acme Fresh Market.
BEET BUNDT CAKE
1 cup butter or margarine, softened, divided
1 1/2 cups packed dark brown sugar
3 eggs
4 (1 ounce) squares semisweet chocolate
2 cups puréed cooked beets
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
Confectioners' sugar
In a mixing bowl, cream 3/4 cup butter and brown sugar. Add eggs; mix well. Melt chocolate with remaining butter; stir until smooth. Cool slightly. Blend chocolate mixture, beets and vanilla into the creamed mixture (mixture will appear separated). Combine flour, baking soda and salt; add to the creamed mixture and mix well. Pour into a greased and floured 10-in. fluted tube pan. Bake at 375 degrees for 45-55 minutes or until a toothpick inserted near the center comes out clean. Cool in pan 10 minutes before removing to a wire rack. Cool completely. Before serving, dust with confectioners’ sugar.
— Taste of Home
SAUTÉED BEETS
4 medium beets, boiled or steamed until tender but firm
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil or butter
1 large garlic clove, minced
1 tablespoon finely-chopped fresh parsley
Salt and freshly-ground black pepper, to taste
Slice the beets between 1/8-and 1/4-inch thick. Heat the olive oil in a nonstick or well-seasoned sauté pan over medium heat. Spoon in the garlic. When the garlic begins to sizzle, slide in the beets and toss or gently stir for 5 minutes, just long enough to heat the beets through.
Sprinkle the parsley and salt over the beets, grind over some fresh pepper, and sauté for 1 minute more. Serve immediately. Yield: 4 servings.
SAUTÉED BEET GREENS
1 pound beet greens
1 strip of thick cut bacon, chopped
1/4 cup chopped onion
1 large garlic clove, minced
3/4 cup of water
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1/6 cup of cider vinegar
Wash the greens in a sink filled with cold water. Drain greens and wash a second time. Drain greens and remove any heavy stems. Tear leaves into bite-sized pieces. Set aside.
In a saucepan, cook bacon until lightly browned. Add onions, cook over medium heat 5 to 7 minutes, stirring occasionally, until onions soften and start to brown. Stir in garlic. Add water to the hot pan, stirring to loosen any particles from bottom of pan. Stir in sugar and red pepper. Continue cooking until mixture boils. Add greens, reduce heat. Cover and simmer for 10-15 minutes. Stir in vinegar. Serve warm. Serves 4.
